How to install lawn edging – step by step

Plastic lawn edging on a roll goes in over one afternoon and without concrete. Here is how to do it so the edging stays straight for many seasons.

Tools you need

• a spade or a half-moon edger,
• string and pegs (or a garden hose to mark curves),
• a tape measure, scissors or a sharp knife to cut the edging,
• a rubber mallet and a tamper or a board.

Step 1. Mark the line

Mark straight sections with string stretched between pegs and curves with a garden hose laid on the ground. Measure the line to know how many metres of edging you need (add a few per cent extra).

Step 2. Dig a narrow trench

Dig a vertical, narrow trench along the line. Match its depth to the height of the edging so that only a small edge stays above ground after installation – enough to stop the grass but not in the way when mowing.

Step 3. Unroll and lay the edging

Unroll the edging a day earlier in a warm place or in the sun – it becomes more flexible and is easier to lay in curves. Stand it upright in the trench, starting from one end.

Step 4. Joining sections

If one roll is not enough, overlap the ends of the sections so there is no gap for the grass to grow through. For large beds, longer rolls are more convenient – fewer joints.

Step 5. Backfill and tamp

Fill the trench with soil on both sides of the edging and tamp it firmly. Check that the edging stands upright and level – adjust it with a rubber mallet if needed. Finally, water the soil so it settles.

Does it need concrete?

No. Plastic edging holds thanks to well-compacted soil on both sides. Concrete is needed for heavy, rigid concrete edging.

Most common mistakes

• A trench that is too shallow – the edging comes out of the ground after the first winter.
• An edge too high above ground – it gets in the way when mowing.
• No overlap at the joints – grass grows through the gap.

COMPACT (10.5 cm) and STANDART (11 cm) edging tapes in 6, 10 and 20 m rolls are in the garden border tape category.